The spindle hole is tapered with #2 Morse Taper (2MT). It is a “direct indexing” head that uses the change gears from the Atlas 6” lathe for indexing. To cut the gears I used my little, homemade Harold Hall dividing head. Turn the ganged stock to the final diameter for the gear. Gang up four pieces of brass stock on the shank. First, make a shank from length of 1/2" diameter steel in the lathe cut and turn a 5/16” diameter boss. These are from 1/8” thick flat brass bar. The O1 steel comes out very hard and will cut just about anything.įor an upcoming project I want to cut some 48 diametral pitch gears with 52, and 16 teeth. Leave it in about 10 minutes, pull out and let air dry. Heat to 350 degrees F using a candy thermometer to check the temperature. To temper, suspend the tool in a small pot of salad oil on the kitchen stove. Quenched tool steel is too brittle at this point and needs tempering. Leave in the oil quench about 30 seconds, it cools down slowly. I used some leftover salad oil from the kitchen. Heat with a torch to 1400 degrees F, which is cherry red heat in room light. Shape and form the tool to the desired size. O1 is the most widely used tool steel and is available from McMaster Carr and other suppliers. Instead mine is a single point cutter with most of the blank removed before forming the cutting teeth.
My lathe is not rigid enough to make the cutter as Helicron shows. I followed Helicron's technique with good results.įirst step is to make the cutter tool. The method is described by "Helicron" at his website. However, recently I found another method to cut gears that approximates involute tooth using only one cutter to form gears of any size within the diametral pitch. You can follow his techniques without deviation. Several years ago, I did an experiment on cutting spur gears using the methods in the “Workshop Practice Series” book #17, “Gears and Gear Cutting” by Ivan Law:
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